London Day 8: Bye Bye London – Detroit Airport – Reflections

We woke up in this last morning, went to grab coffee and a sandwich from the Italian Fountain Cafe at Hyde Park next to us, and came back to the hotel room to check out and depart.

I am taking the Heathrow express from the Paddington Station, and Walid is taking a bus to Victoria Station, then a bus to Liverpool.

I carried by one polo green duffle bag, while Walid dragged his big bag on wheels, and carried his laptop case on his shoulder, the laptop that never left him during this trip.  We stopped at the entrance of the Paddington station to say goodbye, a moment that is always hard and awkward for me.

I don’t like goodbyes as much as I don’t like showing emotions.  A research by Harvard university that lasted 75 years, concluded that healthy relationships bringing joy is the strongest factor of happiness in someone’s life.  Here is a talk about that:

 

My relationship with Walid is one of the healthiest relationships I have in my life.  We vibrate at the same frequency, and share mostly the same vision of life and the perception of our relationship to it, to history, and to civilization.  Since we met in 1996, we have shared our love for art, music, religion, food, culture, film, and positive outlook of life.  When he left the U.S. in 2010, I did not know the impact that will leave on me till he was gone.  The loneliness a close friend leaves in your life upon separating is crushing. London was great, but seeing and spending time with Walid was even greater.  I said good bye fast and left so the situation would not turn into an emotional one. I worry that if I break down, 20 years will come out during this break down and it might go uncontrollable. We said good bye, hugged, and departed silently.

London was an amazing city.  In addition to its beautiful streets, roads, buildings, architecture, art, public spaces, parks, rivers, greenery, bookstores, coffee shops, restaurants, pubs, boutiques, smiling faces, and history, there were two more things that were a big part of the London spirit.  One was tolerance! London has given up on being an English city and decided to be an international metropolis city.  It has given up on its English identity and chosen more a multicultural one.  With a city rooted in history, and so much pride to hold, it takes lots of tolerance and nobility to do such a compromise. I learned from that, and it made me a better person, and it made me appreciate London more.

The second was WWII.  Yes! World War Two, that almost destroyed this city who decided to fight to the last breath. Although I appreciate Paris’s preference to preserve Paris rather than destroy it through a futile fight with the Germans, Britain decided to fight, and there is a heroic beauty to that.  You see it on the walls and streets, on the monuments, and restored buildings.  There is a sense of pride and honor that roams the city in the morning with the fog, and fills the londoners lungs with air of  integrity.

Flying through Delta Airline international was a great experience.  So much convenience, from the refreshments served, to the showings offered, to the comfort of the chairs, to the charging stations at each seat.  There were plenty to do, and the flight is never a bore due to the high level of entertainment offered.

Once we reached the US, we were received with a ridiculously long line for immigration and a woman officer shouting to organize the line.  The line took more than an hour.  The officer was saying that couple airplanes arrived at the same time and created the rush hour.  Really?!  You are in an airport and can not handle two airplanes?!  Maybe instead of 4 immigration officers, you can have 10!  I crossed the entry point smoothly, and was picked up by my friend Yousif at the door.

Coming from London, America feels a little over policed, less tolerant, and with President Trump in the White House, a little unfriendly and dark.  Nevertheless, it is home, and the greatest place to be in terms of financial opportunity, ease of living, and educational opportunities.

I have decided that every April, I will take a Euro trip, with the next one in 2018, will be to Paris.  Till then, I hope that you will consider traveling to London, one of the greatest cities on Earth, and I hope you will find my travel memoir useful in your trip, especially by itinerary map.

 

"In a society that profits from self doubt, liking yourself is a rebellious act". Caldwell

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London Trip Day 7: Persian Dinner – Edgware – Ahmad Alkatib – Tower of London – Final Night

He is an Iranian musician from Italy, living and working in London.  He was playing all kind of music from around the world during our dinner me and Walid at the Rose Garden restaurant, located in the London Elizabeth Hotel, right across from the Italian Fountains entrance of Hyde park.  The food was delicious, and we were the last customers of the restaurant that night.

The waitress is from Lithuania, and the people eating next to us were from Turkey.  London is gorgeous in its diversity.

Next day, the promised foul (pronounced foooooool in Arabic) plate was awaiting us on Edgware road.  We grabbed our coffee from the Italian Fountain cafe and walked through Central Park to Edgware road, a major road that has its origins as a Roman road and runs 10 miles in a perfect straight line.  The southernmost part of the road is noted for its distinct Middle Eastern flavour.  Many Lebanese and Egyptian restaurants, hookah cafes, and Arab themed nightclubs line the street.  The Odeon cinema, once the location of the biggest screen in London, often now shows films in Arabic.

There were many choices, but asking around at the best place to eat foul at, we were directed to AlShishawi restaurant.  An Egyptian owned restaurant, but serves all kind of food.  It is nicely decorated in arabesque and wood work of Egypt.  We sat out side and chose couple plates of lebanese style foul, then added some shawarma that looked so fresh and delicious to skip.  Nothing is like a clear cup of tea and the sound of the spoon stirring the sugar.  It brings so much memories of childhood.  What I enjoyed more than the authentic food, is the happiness of Walid, who has been deprived from such dish in Liverpool, since he left Lebanon.

Walid’s battery was dying, and while he tried to decipher the crooks from the honest salesmen of Edgware Road shopts to buy a new battery, I was in contact with Sheik Ahmad Alkatib to meet.  Ahmad Alkatib is a former scholar, and current thinker, author, and reformer, originally from Iraq, and lived in several countries.  His reform theories are aligned to IRSHAD and we consider ourselves fighting the same fight for Islamic reform.  He has published 10’s of books and currently very active on Facebook, with two live sessions a day!

We met Sheik Ahmad Alkatib and walked with him to Starbucks on Edgware, then we went with him through the tube, which I wanted to experience before leaving London, to another area, called Queensway, which had multiple Arabic books stores.  He showed us a new book he published.  We visited Al Saqi Book Store on Westbourne Grove, which is one of the most popular Arabic book stores in that area.

We said good bye to him there, and stayed a little looking for a book.  Could not find the right book to read, or actually did not know what to look for.  My education in Arabic language has been islamized by my Islamic studies, so I rarely read Arabic books outside the religious context.  The Hawzah (Islamic Seminary studies institution) did not encourage or at least did not facilitate reading books outside the circle of the same school of thought.  I was lost in the biggest book store there.  I decided to ask Walid.  Walid really had no suggestion for me.  He said none of these he would recommend.  I called my friend Mohamad Fahos from Lebanon using WhatsApp, and asked him.  He recommended few classical which I could not find.  The books also were very expensive.  I ended up buying 1 book just so I would not regret having a book from a such a rich library.  Yet it was unfortunate that nothing attracted me.  That is part of the severe lack of literature problem in the Arabic world.  Basically, nobody writes anymore, and those that write don’t publish, and those who publish don’t make money out of their publication.  There are no incentive to publish unless you want to feed the spiders living on the book shelves of the deserted Arab book stores and libraries.

In addition, the books were very expensive.  12 to 20 pounds per book.  Almost double the price of the English similar books.  After placing 5 books on the table for the guy to calculate a price for me, the price was about 70 pounds.  I offered him 50 pounds.  He said take them all for free since you are breaking me anyway, angrily!  I was embarrassed by his statement, but could not just put that investment into these books knowing that they will be available online soon, and they are probably not worth the money to tell you the truth. I returned them all but one, that I paid for 12 pounds and left.

I stopped for a gelato bite at Snowflake Luxury Gelato.  How can you resist a luxury Gelato!  Then we stopped at Arro Coffee for a pour on coffee experience.  I asked the blonde barista to tell my friend Walid all about the pour on coffee.  She was from Italy.  She asked us where are we from, and Walid answered from Lebanon and my friend is from the US.  She right away turned to me and smiled and said “Nice to Meet You!” Without looking back at Walid.  Me and Walid noticed the obvious differentiation in treatment between us upon declaring our citizenships, and it was funny to us.

We walked back to the hotel, while Walid tried to help his nephew Ali via WhatsApp video chat on his Math homework, getting furistrated at times. We arrive at the hotel, and decided that we are not going to settle down for the remaining of the afternoon to relaxation, while we are on our last night, and we are going to thread down to one sight, that I have read so much about, and watched 3 documentaries about in preparation before going to London, but haven’t seen yet … the Tower Bridge.

It takes two buses to get to the Tower Bridge, but the second bus is always free if you take it within the hour of taking the first bus.  We hopped on in the middle of Rush Hour, and took as about an hour and a half to get there, sitting on the second floor of the red bus, watching London and talking.  Can not have better travel time than that!

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We arrived prior to sunset to the Tower Bridge, full of tourists.  Strolled across it few times, and beneath it. Contemplated this great city and the people who have walked this bridge and watched this sunset.  We then got a couple Starbucks cafes and walked on the other side of the Thames across from the Tower of London.  We then headed to downtown, and we took a bus from there back to Edgware.  We arrived there about midnight, and it was still full of people and strolling cars.  The hookah cafes were bustling with guys and girls smoking and talking.  We ate couple stuffed lamb plates as a goodbye meal for me and Walid, and walked back to the hotel through Hyde Park after midnight.

We talked about what scares you in life?  What is the scariest thing to you?  For Walid, he still had a thing for evil spirits and demons which he believed in.  For me, it was humans,  sick or mentally ill delusional psychopathic humans.

We had short conversations to the sounds of Arabic music before our eyes fell heavy with sleep in the last night in London.

London Trip: Day 6: Padington Hotel – Natural History Museum – Persian Dinner

It is Friday.

A couple from Netherlands shared our hostel room.  They were friendly, liberal, and hated Trump.  They talked about the economy, and the growth taking place in Netherlands.  They spoke English with us, and it seems that English is the international language in Europe.  They said that Holland was booming.  They said that if you visited Holland, you should not only visit Amsterdam, for there are many beautiful cities and areas.

It dawned on me that we are now in the countdown for the final days in London.  Worse than that, it is the count down for my time with Walid.  I wanted to spend quality time with him during our last three days.  I also wanted him to be comfortable, since he is really uneasy in a hostel.  I wanted to have a private place where we can play Um Kalthoum at night, and sit and talk for hours while eating his wheat Loaves of Bread or his grapefruits.  “Make sure not to peel the white parts”, he would tell me. Continue reading “London Trip: Day 6: Padington Hotel – Natural History Museum – Persian Dinner”

London Trip: Day 5: Trafalgar Square – National Gallery – Big Ben

Sleeping on the upper bed, I woke up Thursday morning while Walid is playing the creepy man prank on me, staring at me real closely.  I missed his creepy man jokes.  He used to stand behind the door of my office when we worked in 2004 in a cellphone shop, and watch me in a creepy way, and pretend that he is hiding when I see him.  Sometimes it made me wonder if a psychological issue was really being manifested.  Thankfully, it was  just a prank all along.

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Walid is 10 years older than me, but he has the wisdom of a 100 years old philosopher. He grew up in Beirut Golden time, in an ocean of intellectual waves, when Beirut was the Paris of the East.  Then the intellectual waves became intellectual wars, and they in turn converted to real wars, and he lived the civil war in lebanon that started in 1975 day by day, the Israeli occupation that swept up to Beirut in 1982, till he left in the 90’s, and the civil war outlasted him till the year 1989, when it kind of ended with the Taif Accord, while the war with Israel continued till today.  He studied music in California, and a bunch of other things.  He is a professional guitarist, a well learned pianist, a great composer, and an accomplished poet in Arabic.  He is a reference and an expert in the Arabic Language with all its branches, Arabic Music, Arabic poetry, and fluent in English and French.  He also speaks Spanish, and some Russian and German.  He is also an Islamic scholar, and few of his friends declared him as Mujtahid.  Although it might have been a joke at certain times, but it really reflected his intellectual capability to infer the jurisprudence he needed for his daily life.

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Walid is also a radio producer, video producer, a TV host, a columnist, a chinese cuisine chef, a donut baker, an educator, and school administrator. Continue reading “London Trip: Day 5: Trafalgar Square – National Gallery – Big Ben”

London Trip: Day 4: British Library – Russell Square – British Museum – SOHO

Someone once said that the greatness of a city is in the proportion of its public places to its private ones.  The British Library is not only a library.  It is a celebration of knowledge.  It is a museum of the history of script.  It is a compositor of the great documents written in history.   It is London’s largest indoor public space.  It holds over 150 million items. Almost 14 million books, 824,101 serial titles, 351,116 manuscripts, 8,266, 276 philatelic items, 4,347,505 cartographic items, 1,607,885 music scores, and 6,000,000 sound recordings, and that makes it the second largest library in the world after the library of Congress.   It is also a conglomeration of awesome cafe’s and shops.  Thus, it is a great place for studying or working with its free wifi and 10’s of sitting spaces.  5 to 9 thousand people visit it a day. Continue reading “London Trip: Day 4: British Library – Russell Square – British Museum – SOHO”

London Trip – Day 3 – Imperial College – Science Museum – King’s Crossing

I am writing about my 3rd day in London, but today is the end of my last 5th day.  It will be hard to go back and recollect the 3rd day with its feelings since by now I feel the city has overwhelmed me emotionally.

On the morning of Tuesday, I woke up early, checked out, and left my bag at the Bell Desk for a pound, and headed to Hyde park. Our next destination is Natural History Museum in South Kensington.  We will cross Hyde park going there, so it makes sense to start at Hyde park’s Italian Fountain cafe.  I love this cafe.  It is the first one I experienced in London, and it feels like home to me now.  Just like the myth that chicks will think of you as their mother hen if you are the first person to see after they hatch.  That cafe was my mother hen.

I wrote, and sipped on the flat white that seems the most popular drink in London.  Another reason to love this city is that my drink, which is usually not even offered by most American cafes, and if offered, not written on the menu, is the most popular drink here.  I guess I have a London taste, or since most of the cafes in London are run by Italians, an Italian taste for that matter.

When Walid joined me, we strolled down one of the beautiful paths of Hyde park going South, on the bank of the Serpentine river. Magnificent monuments and sculptures marked the intersections of the park walking dirt roads, and dogs roamed freely.  I always saw a scene in the US when two dogs, leashed and walked by their owners, meet.  It always seemed like they want to kill or rape each other.  Seeing dogs roam freely in London, and then bark and approach each other when they meet, but yet not touch each other, made me think that the dog-leaching thing in the US is way overrated.

London is an ever non-ending beauty.  It is one large classical museum.  The architecture merges together producing chambers and chambers of Art and Architecture.  Then lined up under these magnificent 3-4 floor historical buildings, cafes, pubs, and restaurants, book stores, tea shops, and little shops, very neat and beautifully designed and decorated. I was impressed by most of the logos and type fonts.

In approaching the Natural History Museum, we passed by the Imperial College, and there, there was a farmer’s market in the middle of the day.  It didn’t make much sense since it was Tuesday, but it was a gorgeous coincident.  Authentic healthy Indian chutney food (street food), fresh beef burgers or kabab in a wrap full of fresh vegetables, cookies, fresh apple juice, pies, coffee, and line up of choices in small canopies.  I could not resist trying a sandwich, while Walid bought a loaf of wheat bread.  Yes, he was eating mostly like Jolvanjone from La Miserable. That’s what I called him every time he was eyeing a loaf of bread to buy. He would get some yogurt with it sometimes, and sometimes he would wrap it with some avocado and honey.  He ate like prophets, talked like philosophers, dressed like a 90’s teacher, and sang in the streets like a crazy person.  I loved every second with him.

Every time we walked through or in a university campus, he could not stop comparing the experience to the strenuous experience of passing through the American University of Beirut (AUB) in Beirut, Lebanon, and how a guard needed to check his student ID otherwise he would not be allowed in.

There was a long line to enter the magnificent Natural History Museum, but next to it were the Science museum which had no line.  It wasn’t on my plan, and I thought it is similar to Michigan Science Center or Ann Arbor Hands On Museum, which is basically few activities for kids to educate them about some sciencitifc facts. I was wrong.  The Science Museum was a magnificent two parts, each 4 floors museum, that covered the history of science, especially as related to British scienctists, from 15 century to today.  I ended up separating from Walid din the museum, and ended up staying till it closed at 5:30PM.

I then was invited to give a talk at a book store near Kings crossing area, and so we did pick a hostel next to the book store and reserved one night there, two beds, in a room of 4 beds.  The talk was titled: “Meetup with Wissam Charafeddine, cofounder of IRSHAD”.  I arrived there, and there were about 20 people sitting on chairs waiting, from different age groups and nationalities.  I was introduced by a Persian English host, and then I proceeded to talk about Islamic Reform, the story of IRSHAD, and my personal story.  After we were done, I was invited for dinner in an Italian restaurant near by, and had a great conversation with a friend from the Western Desert, a friend from Palestine, and a professor from Egypt.  All of them are English now off course.

That was my first night sleeping in a hostel.  I was convinced by the feasibility of using a hostel from my friend, Yousef Alqamoussi’s experience with hostels in Costa Rica.  You can read all about it at onechapterone.wordpress.com.  A shared rooms by a group of usually young travelers, and common rooms to intermingle and socialize, or work and eat.  Rooms are used usually only for sleeping.  Sometimes there are toilets and showers within the rooms, and sometimes there are general toilets and showers that are shared through out the hostel.  Although I was eyeing the Astor Hostels (there are 3 of them in London) to stay at, I didn’t reserve prior to my trip because I didn’t want to restrict my plans in a newly discovered city.

We stayed at the Key Stone hostel, next to King’s Crossing station.  It was also across from two things on my plan:  The King’s Crossing Bookstore, and the SHOP and DO Tea shop, which was rated as one of the best tea places in London.   Walid didn’t join me for dinner, and resorted back to the hostel to settle and pray.  As a practicing Muslim, he prays three times a day at least, 5 prayers.  So if you are not a Muslim, there are 5 muslim prayers a day: Fajr (morning), Dhuhur (noon), Asr (afternoon), Maghreb (Sunset), and Isha (night).  Each prayer is made of a number of physical activities or postures and sayings associated with them.  While each of the prayer has a strict interval to be prayed within, Dhuhur and Asr internvals can be combined into one, and Majrib and Isha can be combined into one, without needed excuse for Shia Muslims, and with a needed excuse for Sunni muslims.  In order for a Muslim to perform his/her prayer, they need to do Wudu (ritual washing), and have pure clothe (no impurities on it, and impurities are blood, semen, urine, excretion, pork, dog stuff, alcohol for some muslims, and infidel stuff for some muslims).  And only when you thought this can not get more complicated, listen to this:  Your wudhu is invalidated by using the bathroom, sleeping, farting, or passing out.  For ejaculation or sexual intercourse, Ghusul is required (basically taking a shower).

In Muslim countries, there are mosques or places designated for prayers everywhere.  It is also a common scene to see people stopping, lining up, and praying on congregation.  In the West, Muslims suffer through this practice, and often get into awkward situations.  And here is one of the most awkward ones I have every heard about that happened to Walid that night.

Walid prayed 5 times a day during our visit to London.  Keeping up with my plans, he prayed all over the place.  At Hyde Park, in Russel square, in the basement of restaurants, on the lawn of the National Gallery, at the Elizabeth fountains in front of the gates of her Majesty residence at Buckingham palace.  He prayed Jumaa prayer in a mosque in Paddington.  The guy who he asked about Jumaa prayer because he looked Muslim basically took him with him. The best place to pray off course was inside the hotel room.  Well, in the hostel room in this case.  We booked a room of 4 beds (two sets of bunk beds),  and when Walid entered the room, there was a couple already sleeping.  Trying to be as silent as possible, and not wanting to turn the light on, while also his phone was dead as usual, he went out of his way, to go get a flashlight so he would not wake up the other guests.  He used the toilet and washroom that were outside the room so he would not cause noise by using the ones in side the room.  Then he placed his prayer rug in the room, in silence, in the dark, and he started praying.  He read all the prayers in side his heart, and made all the moves with the utmost silence he could perform. Nevertheless, after leaving the room for 10 or 15 minutes after he finished his prayers, upon returning to the room, he found the two couples out.  We are talking at about 12 or 12:30AM.  Their beds are undone, lockers are emptied, their bags disappeared.  This mystery puzzled us for hours, trying to figure out what happened.  I asked the reception about them, and they said they don’t know anything about them leaving. We had a hypothesis that they were scared shitless by Walid prayers.  Maybe they have never seen something like that.  Maybe they have an Islamophobia, and I say that innocently, not out of bigotry by them, but perhaps out of ignorance.  At anycase, we decided that Walid would inform the other guests in the room of his performance of prayer before doing so and old explain to them the prayer so they are comfortable with what he is doing.  The next guests we shared the room with for the next two days were fine.  Carlos,  a Philipino English guy, and a couple from Netherlands the night after.

We slept, and it was not our half way through the trip, but we have experienced so much so far.

London Trip – Day 2 – Notting Hill – Portobello Market – Buckingham Palace and Unexpected Digressions

The dark eyed, hazel haired Italian Fountains Cafe server smiled at me as she sees me open my palm with a bunch of coins in them.  I figured out it is easier to just let them pick up the coins which they need rather than to try to hold each coin to the sun, investigate it to decipher out all the engravings, 15th century emblems, and the detailed ornamentation of the crown of her majesty, what denomination of a coin each is, before I do the math and give the right combination.

Then proceeded to sit on the patio overseeing the Italian Fountains in Hyde Park. The Italian Gardens is a 150 year old ornamental water garden located on the north side of Kensington Gardens in Hyde park.  It is believed to have been created as a gift from Prince Albert to his beloved Queen Victoria.  After my friend Walid joined me, we took a strol down the serpentine river, and stoped by the Kensington Palace, which is a 500 years old castle with so much history, the last of which is becoming the home of Princess Diana. Continue reading “London Trip – Day 2 – Notting Hill – Portobello Market – Buckingham Palace and Unexpected Digressions”

London Trip – Day 1 – Heathrow Express to Paddington – Welcome to London!

I bought the Heathrow express 14 days earlier for a special. Tickets were stored on my iPhone wallet. I checked in the flight electronically and boarding pass was on my wallet. I have never travelled lighter!  Technology is allowing us to enjoy our life skipping the nuances of the technicalities of the structured civil society.
I think I over prepared for the flight. I had two magazines, a book, iPad with keyboard, my phone, headsets, popcorn, protein bars, and I didn’t touch any of those. The service was superb with two meals, and a selection of movies. I watched Captain Fantastic, and slept. They provided a pillow, a blanket, a blind, and ear plugs. It was a wonderful sleep.

At arrival, the first thing I noticed was that the bathrooms at Heathrow were minimalist modern design and very green (environmentally conscious).

The second thing was that all of the immigration officers looked ethnic (non-white or whatever the politically correct term is) and 2 out of the 8 immigration officers were wearing traditional Islamic scarves (Hijabies in case the word is not offensive to you).  A nice multicultural welcome. Standing behind me were four Iraqi gentlemen with Iraqi passports discussing how the hospitals in Samara and Beirut are better than the ones in Germany and London. They also complained about the length of the line. I felt a sense of Arabic prestige and entitlement I have seen for a while. Continue reading “London Trip – Day 1 – Heathrow Express to Paddington – Welcome to London!”

London Trip – Itinerary

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I leave Detroit at 10:28PM for a 7 hours and 37 minutes red eye flight to LHR.

Sunday, April 2, 2017:

I will arrive at 11:05 am in Heathrow airport in London on Sunday.

I booked the express train from LHR to Paddington Station for $15.50.

I also booked the return ticket on April 9.

I booked the first two nights in Hyde park area which is next to the Paddington Station so I can settle, rest, and then proceed with hostels for the rest of the trip.

Staying in this hotel:

Royal Eagle Hotel

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There, I will be meeting my friend Walid Marmar, and spending the few upcoming days together.

Visiting on Sunday:

  1. Diana Memorial
  2. Kensington Gardens
  3. Kensington Palace
  4. Hyde Park – Sunset

Monday, April 3, 2017:

Staying in Royal Eagle Hotel

Visiting on Monday:

  1. Serpentine Gallery
  2. Design Museum
  3. Holland Park
The rest of the trip is approximated in this map and it will be flexible to make decisions over there.  I will be posting a daily blog while I am there summarizing my daily experiences.

London Trip Planning Part 2

 

My trip will be planned according to main attractions and organized by neighbourhoods. While I will have 3-5 specific places to see in a day, I will then leave an open free time to discover neighborhoods.

Here is a list of London Neighborhoods: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Travel-g186338-s204/London:United-Kingdom:Neighborhoods.html

Weather April:

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Some resources, I looked at are the 7 day trip planner, or the LONDON, ENGLAND – THE PERFECT ITINERARY FOR FIRST-TIMERS.

Some of the sources for hotels and hostels I used:

airbnb.com

hostelworld.com

hotwire.com

and these are great tips for visiting:

http://handluggageonly.co.uk/2016/06/20/30-travel-tips-need-know-visiting-london/

Some of the best places to eat:

http://travelphotodiscovery.com/eating-london-a-delicious-food-tour/